Kashmir's History
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Background
Kashmir, the northernmost region of India, has been subject to decades of terrorism, the driving force for the exodus of Hindu Pandits. Compelled to abandon a generational 200-year-old tea-exporting business and their ancestral home, my father and grandparents fled the valley in the early 2000s. Many Kashmiris have faced experiences mirroring those of my family—a reported 44,167 families to be exact (Ministry of Home Affairs). This number may be of an underestimation, given the chaotic nature of terrorism and violence. In 2019, to combat this terrorism and increase the standard of living in Kashmir, the Indian Government abrogated Article 370. Article 370 was legislation that authorized special autonomy over Kashmir; Kashmir operated similarly to an independent country but under the representation of India. The removal allowed India to apply its national constitution and civil rights to the people of Kashmir, revamping livelihoods.
In 1947, after 190 years of British rule, India’s partition broke the country into two. Muslim-dominated states, Kashmir being one, were to form Pakistan, and Hindu-dominated states formed India. However, India assumed the region as Kashmir was ruled by a Hindu Maharaja, who sought governance under India. In 1949, the Indian Government imposed Article 370 to satisfy the Muslim population, allowing a sense of independence. Yet, extremist terrorist groups formed with their primary focus to merge Kashmir with Pakistan. The leader of Jashi-e-Mohammad, a Sunni terrorist organization, Masood Azhar vowed, “I will not rest in peace until Kashmir is liberated,” (Hussain). Jamaat-e-Islami, a now-banned political party in Kashmir, coordinated with militancy groups to achieve their secessionist goal (Naseer). Political parties within Kashmir were intertwined with extremist organizations, highlighting structured corruption and terrorism. Swamped with violence from the late 1980s to the early 2000s, Kashmiri Hindus were targeted for ransom, their houses raided, and some even killed. The terrorism in Kashmir has displaced 44,167 families, of which 37,782 are Hindu (Ministry of Home Affairs). Another report suggests the true number of displaced families is around 62,000, again with an overwhelming Hindu majority (Puri and Escobar).
Char Chinar
The Char Chinar, located on an island in Dal Lake, is a historical monument. Char means “four”, and Chinar is a now endangered tree species in Kashmir. Now, Chinar trees in Kashmir, painted with white rings, are assumed as state property. During my visit, the Char Chinars seemed frail, contrary to their historical representation. Over the years, it appears that climate change and pollution have taken its toll on Kashmir. This project is named after the Char Chinar, as the trees symbolize resilience throughout history and turmoil.
Shankaracharya Temple
A temple dedicated to Lord Shiva, Shankaracharya is situated on top of the Zabarwan Mountain Range. One must climb a number of large steps to reach the summit and temple. Today, there is a paved road on which cars will take you to the base of these steps, but when built around 371 BCE, one had to hike the entirety of the trail. Once you scale the gigantic steps, there is a breathtaking view of the Srinagar, Dal Lake, and the mountain surrounding the valley The shrine itself is quite small and often crowded. Unlike the Kheer Bhawani Temple, there was a line to pay respects to the shrine, restricting devotees to a few seconds to pay respects. The Shankaracharya Temple is a must-visit when in Kashmir.
Kheer Bhawani Temple
Kheer Bhawani translates to ‘Milk Goddess’. This temple is dedicated to her, and a large number of Hindus gather here following the Amarnath pilgrimage. Here, you will find many Kashmiri Chinars, distinctly painted with white rims on their bases. Over the years, 115 Indian personnel have been allocated to this temple alone to protect it from terrorism. According to The Hindu, “This place is one of the few exceptions where Hindu priests never left the Mandir despite serious terrorist threats.” During my visit, the pandit stated that the color of the water in the shrine changes color as a precursor to global events. It is said that right before COVID, the water had turned black, signifying death. The water was a grayish color during my visit, a color that represents a state of neutrality and balance.
Pari Mahal
Recognized as UNESCO World Heritage Sites, several Mughal Gardens are scattered around Kashmir, one being Pari Mahal. Pari Mahal was built around 1650 by Prince Dara Shukoh. This garden is located on top of the Zabarwan mountains. Pari Mahal has a spectacular view of the city and Dal Lake. Some believe that the Pari Mahal was built for astronomical research by the Mughals. The garden is named after Prince Dara Shukoh’s wife. It is also believed that Dara Shukoh lived in the garden for a couple of years. The architecture is well preserved and resembles that of a fort. Pari Mahal translates to the “Palace of Fairies.”
Nishat Bagh
On the eastern bank of the Dal Lake lies another Mughal Garden: Nishat Bagh. As one of the largest Mughal Gardens in Kashmir, only second to Shalimar Bagh, Nishat Bagh is incredibly spacious. With advanced engineering for its time, the garden has many water fountains fueled by the springs and streams of the mountainous valley. This garden was built in 1633 by Asif Khan. It's told that Emperor Shah Jahan, Asif Khan’s son-in-law, was jealous of Nishat Bagh, hinting that it be gifted to him. After no success, Shah Jahan cut off the water supply to the garden. The garden was left deserted and Asif Khan was saddened. Unaware of Asif Khan, his servant secretly reconnected the water supply, rejuvenating the Nishat Bagh. Emperor Shah Jahan did not react negatively to the disobedience rather he ordered further restoration efforts for the garden.
Adhoo's
Tucked away on Residency Road, near Polo View Road, is Adhoo's restaurant and cafe. My grandfather used to eat here often during his times in Kashmir, I can certainly see why; the food here is extraordinary. Over one hundred years old, Adhoo's has not deviated from their traditional wazwan. Their kabobs were the best I've ever had and their syun was incredibly flavorful and succulent. During my visit, I ate Adhoo's at least four times, and I hope to visit again sometime soon.
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